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When compiling a ranking of London’s finest restaurants, one might foresee familiar award-winning establishments. However, situated prominently among these gastronomic heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu found in a outlying part of north London.

A Surprise Accolade

This small Turkish eatery, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent culinary publication. This recognition has left the proprietors completely shocked.

“I am totally astonished,” states a proprietor, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their small shop achieving such a prominent spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

This small shop, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after spot, has kept much of its earlier character. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking performance, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the food, and this establishment more than excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a succulent consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. Once the meaty mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the tasty meat is folded tightly inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than is typical, giving it a deeper, more aromatic and more balanced profile.

Rising Above the Titans

Notably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, equivalent experiences at top-tier establishments can cost many times that amount.

A Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the traps of excess, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s success is set to resonate outside its own doors. “I believe many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the greater meaning of this culinary honour.